Arrival in Santiago

After 31 days of walking and a final push of 19 kms today, I arrived this morning in Santiago. My 5 am departure meant that I could be in the city by mid-morning. 

After nearly 500 miles of walking, I had made it. Around each turn in the city, I was waiting to get a glimpse of the cathedral, the official end point of my Camino. Due to my excitement, no breaks this morning. I know there would be plenty of time for coffee and breakfast after I got there.

Walking through the city was bittersweet. Although I never had any doubts about making it, I wasn't quite sure how I would feel once I got there and finished this once in a lifetime journey on the Way of Saint James. It didn't disappoint! Every step, even the ones that hurt due to my blisters was worth it.

Familiar faces from the past month arrived the same day I did. Considering the number of pilgrims and tourists in Santiago, it was nice to be able to celebrate the end of the journey with friends.

Of course, I am most grateful to Saint James or Santiago for having had the privilege and opportunity of tracing the steps that so many other pilgrims had taken over the past millennium.

A Rainy Day In Galicia

The province of Galicia is know for its wet weather. I think that I would have actually been disappointed had I had all sunshine for the last stage of the Camino. So, the Camino Gods decided that a good healthy day of rain was what the pilgrims needed! Although the rain was light when I left Melide, it picked up force and I was soaked before even getting my first coffee. None of my fellow pilgrims seemed too bothered by the inclement weather. Rain gear helped, but it was absolutely impossible to keep the feet dry. So, after a 19 mile hike in the rain, I rolled into one of the nicest albergues that I've stayed in on this trip. A good hot shower and a special lunch of shrimp and octopus made everything right again. 

Only 12 miles tomorrow morning to wrap up my Camino.

Some Days Are Tougher Than Others

Yesterday was a really tough day. Dinner the night before didn't set right with me (my fault, I shouldn't have had Italian food in Spain). Walking was really hard with an upset stomach. Nevertheless, I still toughed out 18 miles, but it look me a coupler hours longer than usual. By evening, with some dinner and a good night's sleep, I was ready to go again this morning.

Today, some hilly terrain, but my stride was strong and my pace fast. What a difference a day makes. Although I left a bit earlier this morning, I arrive in Melida by 1 pm and had the whole afternoon to relax, get some lunch, and do my final load of laundry (had to walk through a bit of mud today).

Tomorrow is another 30 kms. or 18 mile day, but it puts me within a short 3-4 hour walk into Santiago on Sunday morning. Wow, my Camino is almost over. It's hard to believe that I've just completed my 29th straight day of walking.

The Last Push

I've arrived in Sarria. Only 115 kms or 70 miles from Santiago. This is also the beginning point for many people's Camino. If you walk the final 100 kms to Santiago, you are equally qualified for the Compostela, certificate, indicating you walked the Camino.

Of course, for all of us who have now been on the road for nearly a month and who will complete the full Camino Frances of 820 kms, there is a slight distinction as to "real" pilgrims and the more "tourist or vacation" pilgrims. Of course, it's best not to judge!

In this holy year, there appears to be some compensation given by the Pope and Catholic church for walking the Camino (even the shortened version). With that in mind, I do expect the last four days into Santiago to be more crowded by pilgrims just beginning their journey here.

Sarria is quite a pleasant town with numerous albergues and eateries.

For lunch, I once again took advantage of the delightful pulpo - octopus that most restaurants offer. However, I did notice an Italian place that advertises homemade pasta. That may just have to be my dinner destination.

The Pilgrim's Dinner

What almost all Camino towns offer is the pilgrims meal. One might find it offered by the Albergue where you are staying or found in any number of local restaurants. 

Typically, for 10€, you get a three course meal that is fairly consistent across Spain. A first course consists of a choice of a mixed salad, soup, spaghetti, or maybe paella. Second courses are also pretty predictable. The usual choices are chicken, fish, grilled meat, or a vegetarian dish (usually eggs). Dessert rounds off things with either flan, rice pudding, ice cream, or vanilla custard. Unlimited bottles of wine accompany every pilgrim meal. This picture below is the goat cheese and quince dessert I just finished.

Tonight, I broke with the usual and had to have one of the specialties that the province of Galicia is known for - octopus. Absolutely delicious! 

I Went Out Through The Bathroom Window

Albergues can be a bit quirky! Considering how many pilgrims leave early in the morning, some Albergues don't unlock their doors until 7 am. As I like to get on the road by 6:30 or so, this can be a problem. Most Albergues at least have a side door for early travelers to use.

This morning, packed and ready to go, there was no usual side door. I did notice a window in the bathroom just off the lobby. So, the question was, do I sit on the staircase for 30 minutes waiting, or do I climb out the window. A minute later I was on the road and heading out for the day. 

My walk up to O'Cebreiro marks my last day in the mountains. Tomorrow, I head downhill and then a pretty flat, easy five days into Santiago. Once again, my Adirondack legs propelled me past most of the hikers climbing up to O'Cebreiro. Five miles uphill was just an easy walk in the park! The hard days are now over!

I entered Galicia this morning, the last Spanish province I go through. On top of the mountain here is is really quite windy and chilly. However, I just finished a hot, rich vegetable soup known as a caldo gallego. Tonight, I try another regional specialty - pulpo (octopus). 

Tonight, I have a bed in the municipal albergue or xunta. No reservations possible, so it's first come first served for the 100 beds. I was number 8 in line. Just an hour and a half after opening, it's almost full as are the hotels here in O'Cebreiro. Apparently, the early bird gets the worm.

Another Great Town on the Camino

The variety in Spanish towns and cities is amazing! I arrived in Ponferrado this afternoon after a 15 mile hike across the mountains. After cleaning up a bit, I headed out to explore.

Any town that has a castle has to be cool.

 Ponferrado has a medieval section right in the heart of the city. The Templar Castle was built in the 12th century. This national monument is the centerpiece with other beautiful historical buildings filling rest of the old city.

In addition to a thousand years of well preserved history, Ponferrado also has several,argue plazas filled with sidewalk cafes.

Although my stay here is very short, I've still been able to enjoy their history along with a few of the local foods they are best know for in this region.