The Pilgrim's Dinner

What almost all Camino towns offer is the pilgrims meal. One might find it offered by the Albergue where you are staying or found in any number of local restaurants. 

Typically, for 10€, you get a three course meal that is fairly consistent across Spain. A first course consists of a choice of a mixed salad, soup, spaghetti, or maybe paella. Second courses are also pretty predictable. The usual choices are chicken, fish, grilled meat, or a vegetarian dish (usually eggs). Dessert rounds off things with either flan, rice pudding, ice cream, or vanilla custard. Unlimited bottles of wine accompany every pilgrim meal. This picture below is the goat cheese and quince dessert I just finished.

Tonight, I broke with the usual and had to have one of the specialties that the province of Galicia is known for - octopus. Absolutely delicious! 

I Went Out Through The Bathroom Window

Albergues can be a bit quirky! Considering how many pilgrims leave early in the morning, some Albergues don't unlock their doors until 7 am. As I like to get on the road by 6:30 or so, this can be a problem. Most Albergues at least have a side door for early travelers to use.

This morning, packed and ready to go, there was no usual side door. I did notice a window in the bathroom just off the lobby. So, the question was, do I sit on the staircase for 30 minutes waiting, or do I climb out the window. A minute later I was on the road and heading out for the day. 

My walk up to O'Cebreiro marks my last day in the mountains. Tomorrow, I head downhill and then a pretty flat, easy five days into Santiago. Once again, my Adirondack legs propelled me past most of the hikers climbing up to O'Cebreiro. Five miles uphill was just an easy walk in the park! The hard days are now over!

I entered Galicia this morning, the last Spanish province I go through. On top of the mountain here is is really quite windy and chilly. However, I just finished a hot, rich vegetable soup known as a caldo gallego. Tonight, I try another regional specialty - pulpo (octopus). 

Tonight, I have a bed in the municipal albergue or xunta. No reservations possible, so it's first come first served for the 100 beds. I was number 8 in line. Just an hour and a half after opening, it's almost full as are the hotels here in O'Cebreiro. Apparently, the early bird gets the worm.

Another Great Town on the Camino

The variety in Spanish towns and cities is amazing! I arrived in Ponferrado this afternoon after a 15 mile hike across the mountains. After cleaning up a bit, I headed out to explore.

Any town that has a castle has to be cool.

 Ponferrado has a medieval section right in the heart of the city. The Templar Castle was built in the 12th century. This national monument is the centerpiece with other beautiful historical buildings filling rest of the old city.

In addition to a thousand years of well preserved history, Ponferrado also has several,argue plazas filled with sidewalk cafes.

Although my stay here is very short, I've still been able to enjoy their history along with a few of the local foods they are best know for in this region.

Bob's Retirement Gig!

As I've told my brother Bob on numerous occasions, I'm always looking for retirement opportunities for him. Just like that, high in the mountains of Spain, another great idea came to me - Bob's Cafe and Bar (on wheels)! Bob came let the Camino support him as he helps out hungry and thirsty pilgrims. Now that's retirement!

A Great Day In The Mountains

Today had to have been my favorite day of the Camino. For a full 20 kms., I crossed a mountain range that ultimately lead me through charming Spanish villages on my way to today's destination of Ponferrado.

The first three kilometers this morning put me at another of my Camino milestones - the Cruz de Ferro. The simple iron cross is mounted on top of a 20 foot pole surrounded by stones. 

The tradition is to bring a stone from your home and leave it here on the rock pile beneath the cross. It symbolizes leaving behind a burden you've been carrying. I was lucky enough to arrive just at sunrise with no more than a small handful of other pilgrims milling about. Reaching the Cruz de Ferro is a moment every pilgrim looks forward to.

From Foncebadón through the small hamlets of this region has been one of my favorite parts of the Camino. With so many villages on The Way, one can easily take a rest stop at any number of places and frequently. I enjoyed my share of coffee and orange juice on my way down the mountain this morning.

To my surprise, I continue to see familiar faces, but there are an even larger number of new faces. 

Diana Walking

By far, one of my favorite pilgrims so far has been Diana.

I first met Diana before Pomplona or over 350 miles ago. Diana is a 3-year old English Setter from Italy walking the entire Camino with her owner. It hasn't been easy! Most Albergues don't accept dogs. Plus, even by Pamplona, Diana was having paw problems. I saw her again today for the first time in more than a week. Rest and paw booties has solved most of her problems. She will make it to Santiago!

Foncebadón: I Love This Town

I'm back in the mountains. After leaving Astorga, a short 15 mile hike took me to the top of this mountainous area. Foncebadón was my destination today. As you will see from the photos, this town seems to have been lost in time. 

Many of the village structures are now in ruins. It is possible that the only reason for its current existence is the Camino.

Little exits here other than Albergues. After a quick 3 km hike in the morning, I reach another milestone - Cruce de Ferro. Due it its proximity to Foncebadón, it makes for the perfect place to leave before dawn to watch the sun rise over the Iron Cross (more on this tomorrow).

Foncebadón is quite a delightful place that I hope I've represented well in my photos. In fact, it's only of the most unique places I've visited so far.

I was taken a back a bit today when I saw the sign indicating only 232 kms (139 miles) left before the end of this extrordinary journey.