The Funniest Things Can Happen When Speaking In Another Language

For most of the Albergues I am staying in I made reservations from the States before leaving. However, there were a couple spots where I didn't connect. So, while in Hontanas yesterday, I ask the inn keeper  the "hospitalera" if she would call ahead to the next town for my next reservation. I was heading to the town of Boadillo. At that moment I mistakenly asked her if she would make a reservation for me at Bocadillo. Translation: I asked her if she would call ahead and reserve a sandwich for me. After giving me a strange smile, she asked what kind of sandwich I would like in the next town. It was worth a good laugh once I realized my mistake.

Both strong winds and rain battered everyone as we arrived in Boadilla. Although the 17 mile walk was more flat than anything else, one nice hill to climb, the elements made it one of the harder days on the Camino. Everyone is currently trying to dry out clothes before it rains again.

My Camino friends Sunjung (South Korea) and Claude (France) are just two of the many pilgrims here at the albergue tonight.

Boadilla, like many of the small towns on the Camino only exits because so many pilgrims pass through it looking for food or accommodations.

However, without these hamlets, the Camino would be much more difficult. Typically, one comes to a village every five miles or so. Many have at least a café/bar and often an albergue. When the destination town is in sight, I take on the "barn door" mentality and can't seem to get there quickly enough for food, drink, and a good night's sleep.

Mud! Oh Glorious Mud!

It started raining last night in Burgos. Although it was pretty much over by early morning, the trail for the last 3-4 miles into Hontanas today was incredibly muddy. I had to stop a time or two to scrape off inches of mud from my boots before I could continue. Whew, what a mess! Of well, when it rains, the Camino can become even more challenging. All the pilgrims I passed kept smiling and accepted the conditions with the Spirit of the Camino.

Hontanas, a village of no more than a couple hundred residents, is by far one of the most attractive Spanish towns that the Camino has gone through. The stone houses and church appear little different from what they were hundreds of years ago. 

Today starts my walk across the Meseta. It is best described as a high plain where I will spend the next seven days. 

Landscape, since the beginning of the Camino, has changed so much. Whereas vineyards marked much of the first third of the walk, I now walk through wide open spaces with scarcely a tree. It is said that the first third of The Way presents the pilgrim with a physical challenge. 

Across the Meseta, the second third, psychological challenge begins due to the long stretches of relatively barren countryside. Nevertheless, different as it may be, the Meseta has a stark beauty that I look forward to appreciating over the next week.

Burgos

I've just arrived in Burgos, one of the four large cities that the Camino passes through. It also means that I've now walked 170 miles over the last twelve days. My Camino is now 1/3 completed. Whew!

The tough part about the cities is walking in and out through the industrial suburbs - not pretty! Plus, after nearly two weeks in the country, the traffic is pretty crazy! Nevertheless, each of the cities offers so much that they're well worth visiting.

The main attraction of Burgos is their grand gothic cathedral. It truly is as wonderful as any cathedral one can find in France or the rest of Europe. Considering construction of the cathedral began in the 1200s, it is one of the great works of art.

In addition, tapas are now called pinchos. To my taste buds, they are one and the same thing. I did have the occasion to ask two Spanards what the difference was. There doesn't seem to be any real agreement on how one is different from the other. In any case, they're delicious regardless of what when may call it.

The joy of walking returned today! The feet still hurt, but the blister situation is much better. My walking mojo is back making long treks much more enjoyable.

And of course, it's Tapas Tuesday here.

 

The Daily Routine

On the Camino, most of us get into a daily routine pretty quickly depending on personal preferences. For me, I like to get up early so as to arrive at my final destination before the rush of pilgrims later in the afternoon. Most mornings I'm up by six and on the road within a half hour. By 6:30 it's just getting light so I can usually pretty easily find my way out of town (although I have been know to take a wrong turn from time to time). 

I like the early morning walking the most. The air is cool and refreshing and there are not yet a lot of pilgrims on the road. Around the five mile mark most days, I can usually find a small village so as to stop for coffee and a light breakfast. Walking days seem to vary between 12-18 miles. Although today was a full 18 miles, tomorrow is a much shorter 12 mile stroll. Depending on the miles, I arrive at my destination anywhere between 11:30 to 1:30. 

It's also nice to check into the Albergues before the afternoon rush. Most pilgrims arrive between 3-4 so it's a bit crazy in the dorms as everyone settles in. Being early also allow me in the showers first with plenty of hot water.

Afternoons are for relaxing, walking around taking a few pictures, and a time to catch up with Camino friends for lunch and maybe a beer or two. Dinners vary from going out to a restaurant or dinning at the albergue. Early to bed then after packing for another early start the next morning.

As you can tell, I'm probably the hardest working guy on the Camino. 

One of the really great things about the albergues is hanging out in the afternoons with new friends such as this gang from Ireland.

Camino Friendships

Every day, approximately 300 pilgrims set off from Saint Jean to begin the Camino. For the most part, these are the folks I will enteract the most with over the next month since we're on the same timeline for reaching Santiago. Of course, for one reason or another, some are now behind me while others have surged ahead. I see some fellow pilgrims many times; other, perhaps only once. This is the way of the Camino!

Never have I been in the situation where I have been able to meet so many people from all over the world. Americans are the minority on the Camino. A nurse from Australia helped me with my blistered toe. I ate tapas last night with a young man who is a photographer from Norway. I walked for an hour with a woman from South Korea whose father would have served along side my dad in the early1950s during the Korean Conflict. And, I entered Santo Domingo yesterday with a Welshman who might actually be a long lost cousin seeing as how the Prices came from Wales. 

Although I generally walk alone everyday, one easily strikes up conversations that might last for 5 to 10 minutes, or go on for an hour or more as we cross northern Spain. It's been great fun speaking French with Jean-Pierre from southern France (he's actually Belgian) and Spanish with Oscar, one of my roommates tonight, who actually comes from northern Spain.

Friendships on the Camino are a bit odd. We understand that most are very fleeting. People enter and leave are lives very quickly, but this is the way of the Camino. The walk is a great experience, but the people make it memorable.

The Camino Provides

I felt like a pilgrim today, I suffered! Sore feet! Although bandaged, my little toe is a bit of a problem. Because of that, I must have been walking differently, because when I arrived in Santo Domingo, my blisters were now a family of four! However, out here, we have a saying, "the Camino provides." My gift today was one of the shortest walks I've had in many days. Only 12 miles! Just what I needed. I hobbled in here early at 11:30 and have been resting ever since. The Camino knew I needed a short day!

I'll post some pictures later in the walk, but I'm now in my 10th albergue or hostel. This is the primary type of accommodations pilgrims stay in. Tonight, I share my room with 15 other tired pilgrims. Most albergues have a combination of small rooms to large dormitories. Whenever possible, I try to get a lower bunk since packing is easier and I don't have to climb a ladder to get to to top bunk.

A light rain was falling when I left Nájera this morning. Pilgrims tend to get up early so it's hard to sleep in. So, I was on the road by 6:30. There are two advantages to this. One, the morning air is cool and a beautiful time of day to walk. And two, I arrive in the next town early and have extra time for resting and sightseeing. 

As I've mentioned before, food and drink are important not only during the walking day, but afterwards too. Nearly every town I've visited so far has had an excellent assortments of "tapas" or small plates of food. I can honestly say that I haven't yet met a "tapas"I didn't like. See, the Camino provides!

Good News, Bad News Camino-Style

First, the good news! Having now walked approximately 120 miles, I have completed 1/4 of the Camino. Passing 100 miles was a real psychological milestone yesterday. Eight days of walking and I am now well down the road. The last two days have been more long than difficult. Seventeen miles one day; eighteen today. 

Now, the bad news! My first blister started yesterday. Today, I have one pretty raw little toe. However, with the help of a couple other pilgrims, it is now bandaged and should be ready to report for duty tomorrow morning. The other good news is that tomorrow is a relatively short day - only 12 miles to walk.

I'm so pleased to get to visit all of these charming villages that dot northern Spain. Beautiful stone houses and churches fill each village. They are often spots where I stop for coffee or a cold drink as I head for my daily destination.

The stork in the above picture is a fairly common sight.