A Rainy Day In Galicia

The province of Galicia is know for its wet weather. I think that I would have actually been disappointed had I had all sunshine for the last stage of the Camino. So, the Camino Gods decided that a good healthy day of rain was what the pilgrims needed! Although the rain was light when I left Melide, it picked up force and I was soaked before even getting my first coffee. None of my fellow pilgrims seemed too bothered by the inclement weather. Rain gear helped, but it was absolutely impossible to keep the feet dry. So, after a 19 mile hike in the rain, I rolled into one of the nicest albergues that I've stayed in on this trip. A good hot shower and a special lunch of shrimp and octopus made everything right again. 

Only 12 miles tomorrow morning to wrap up my Camino.

Some Days Are Tougher Than Others

Yesterday was a really tough day. Dinner the night before didn't set right with me (my fault, I shouldn't have had Italian food in Spain). Walking was really hard with an upset stomach. Nevertheless, I still toughed out 18 miles, but it look me a coupler hours longer than usual. By evening, with some dinner and a good night's sleep, I was ready to go again this morning.

Today, some hilly terrain, but my stride was strong and my pace fast. What a difference a day makes. Although I left a bit earlier this morning, I arrive in Melida by 1 pm and had the whole afternoon to relax, get some lunch, and do my final load of laundry (had to walk through a bit of mud today).

Tomorrow is another 30 kms. or 18 mile day, but it puts me within a short 3-4 hour walk into Santiago on Sunday morning. Wow, my Camino is almost over. It's hard to believe that I've just completed my 29th straight day of walking.

The Last Push

I've arrived in Sarria. Only 115 kms or 70 miles from Santiago. This is also the beginning point for many people's Camino. If you walk the final 100 kms to Santiago, you are equally qualified for the Compostela, certificate, indicating you walked the Camino.

Of course, for all of us who have now been on the road for nearly a month and who will complete the full Camino Frances of 820 kms, there is a slight distinction as to "real" pilgrims and the more "tourist or vacation" pilgrims. Of course, it's best not to judge!

In this holy year, there appears to be some compensation given by the Pope and Catholic church for walking the Camino (even the shortened version). With that in mind, I do expect the last four days into Santiago to be more crowded by pilgrims just beginning their journey here.

Sarria is quite a pleasant town with numerous albergues and eateries.

For lunch, I once again took advantage of the delightful pulpo - octopus that most restaurants offer. However, I did notice an Italian place that advertises homemade pasta. That may just have to be my dinner destination.

The Pilgrim's Dinner

What almost all Camino towns offer is the pilgrims meal. One might find it offered by the Albergue where you are staying or found in any number of local restaurants. 

Typically, for 10€, you get a three course meal that is fairly consistent across Spain. A first course consists of a choice of a mixed salad, soup, spaghetti, or maybe paella. Second courses are also pretty predictable. The usual choices are chicken, fish, grilled meat, or a vegetarian dish (usually eggs). Dessert rounds off things with either flan, rice pudding, ice cream, or vanilla custard. Unlimited bottles of wine accompany every pilgrim meal. This picture below is the goat cheese and quince dessert I just finished.

Tonight, I broke with the usual and had to have one of the specialties that the province of Galicia is known for - octopus. Absolutely delicious! 

I Went Out Through The Bathroom Window

Albergues can be a bit quirky! Considering how many pilgrims leave early in the morning, some Albergues don't unlock their doors until 7 am. As I like to get on the road by 6:30 or so, this can be a problem. Most Albergues at least have a side door for early travelers to use.

This morning, packed and ready to go, there was no usual side door. I did notice a window in the bathroom just off the lobby. So, the question was, do I sit on the staircase for 30 minutes waiting, or do I climb out the window. A minute later I was on the road and heading out for the day. 

My walk up to O'Cebreiro marks my last day in the mountains. Tomorrow, I head downhill and then a pretty flat, easy five days into Santiago. Once again, my Adirondack legs propelled me past most of the hikers climbing up to O'Cebreiro. Five miles uphill was just an easy walk in the park! The hard days are now over!

I entered Galicia this morning, the last Spanish province I go through. On top of the mountain here is is really quite windy and chilly. However, I just finished a hot, rich vegetable soup known as a caldo gallego. Tonight, I try another regional specialty - pulpo (octopus). 

Tonight, I have a bed in the municipal albergue or xunta. No reservations possible, so it's first come first served for the 100 beds. I was number 8 in line. Just an hour and a half after opening, it's almost full as are the hotels here in O'Cebreiro. Apparently, the early bird gets the worm.

Another Great Town on the Camino

The variety in Spanish towns and cities is amazing! I arrived in Ponferrado this afternoon after a 15 mile hike across the mountains. After cleaning up a bit, I headed out to explore.

Any town that has a castle has to be cool.

 Ponferrado has a medieval section right in the heart of the city. The Templar Castle was built in the 12th century. This national monument is the centerpiece with other beautiful historical buildings filling rest of the old city.

In addition to a thousand years of well preserved history, Ponferrado also has several,argue plazas filled with sidewalk cafes.

Although my stay here is very short, I've still been able to enjoy their history along with a few of the local foods they are best know for in this region.

Bob's Retirement Gig!

As I've told my brother Bob on numerous occasions, I'm always looking for retirement opportunities for him. Just like that, high in the mountains of Spain, another great idea came to me - Bob's Cafe and Bar (on wheels)! Bob came let the Camino support him as he helps out hungry and thirsty pilgrims. Now that's retirement!

A Great Day In The Mountains

Today had to have been my favorite day of the Camino. For a full 20 kms., I crossed a mountain range that ultimately lead me through charming Spanish villages on my way to today's destination of Ponferrado.

The first three kilometers this morning put me at another of my Camino milestones - the Cruz de Ferro. The simple iron cross is mounted on top of a 20 foot pole surrounded by stones. 

The tradition is to bring a stone from your home and leave it here on the rock pile beneath the cross. It symbolizes leaving behind a burden you've been carrying. I was lucky enough to arrive just at sunrise with no more than a small handful of other pilgrims milling about. Reaching the Cruz de Ferro is a moment every pilgrim looks forward to.

From Foncebadón through the small hamlets of this region has been one of my favorite parts of the Camino. With so many villages on The Way, one can easily take a rest stop at any number of places and frequently. I enjoyed my share of coffee and orange juice on my way down the mountain this morning.

To my surprise, I continue to see familiar faces, but there are an even larger number of new faces. 

Diana Walking

By far, one of my favorite pilgrims so far has been Diana.

I first met Diana before Pomplona or over 350 miles ago. Diana is a 3-year old English Setter from Italy walking the entire Camino with her owner. It hasn't been easy! Most Albergues don't accept dogs. Plus, even by Pamplona, Diana was having paw problems. I saw her again today for the first time in more than a week. Rest and paw booties has solved most of her problems. She will make it to Santiago!

Foncebadón: I Love This Town

I'm back in the mountains. After leaving Astorga, a short 15 mile hike took me to the top of this mountainous area. Foncebadón was my destination today. As you will see from the photos, this town seems to have been lost in time. 

Many of the village structures are now in ruins. It is possible that the only reason for its current existence is the Camino.

Little exits here other than Albergues. After a quick 3 km hike in the morning, I reach another milestone - Cruce de Ferro. Due it its proximity to Foncebadón, it makes for the perfect place to leave before dawn to watch the sun rise over the Iron Cross (more on this tomorrow).

Foncebadón is quite a delightful place that I hope I've represented well in my photos. In fact, it's only of the most unique places I've visited so far.

I was taken a back a bit today when I saw the sign indicating only 232 kms (139 miles) left before the end of this extrordinary journey.

40,000 Steps

The average person takes about 2,000 steps walking a mile. By that calculation, I hit about 40,000 steps today in the 20 miles between Villar de Mazarife and Astorga.  By the time I finish in Santiago in 10 days, I will have taken nearly 1 million steps on this journey across northern Spain. 

The heat is back. To avoid walking in the heat of the day, pilgrims seem to be leaving earlier and earlier every morning. I awoke at 6 am this morning to more empty than full beds in the dorm. Heading up a mountain today, so I, too, may check out earlier than usual so as to take my time and beat the mid-day heat. Luckily, only a 15 miler, but, it's uphill!

After arriving in Astorga today, I stopped by a pharmacy to get some foot care advice. By the look on the pharmacists face, I may have won the Camino Big Blister Contest. 

As you'll see in the photo below, I surprisingly bumped into my Welsh buddies, Howard and Steve, this afternoon. I had thought they were a couple days behind me. Sharing a beer together was a most pleasant way to relax here in really a quite attractive small city filled with plazas and outdoor cafes.

 

More Of The Road Less Traveled

0I had a chance again to travel an alternate path. Leaving Leon, I headed to the small town of Villar de Mazarife. Although there were a few more pilgrims on this route compared to the Via Romana I took a couple days earlier, it was still a quite stroll in the Spanish countryside with little traffic or people.

Like many Spanish towns, Villar de Mazarife is more like a ghost town than a thriving community. Nevertheless, with three albergues here there appears to be more than enough beds for the few pilgrims who choose this less traveled route.

But, it has the essentials, a cafe/bar, a grocery store, and a really cool church. Dinner is being cooked by the Albergue and the guide book gives their vegetable paella high marks. Can't wait for dinner.

Each of the villages that the Camino passes through has its own distinct charm. 

Staying at the Albergue San Antonio de Padua, the pilgrim's dinner was over the top. The photo above shows a veggie paella skillet large enough to feed 40 hungry pilgrims. So far, best meal on the Camino!

Leon: A City Worth Returning To

I've now visited three unique Northern Spanish cities, each with its own charms and selling points. From a purely romantic point of view, Pamplona has the "Running of the Bulls" and Hemingway. Burgos sports one of the really great cathedrals found in Europe. Leon has an equally excellent cathedral along with tiny center city streets filled with eateries for tapas and wine. 

If you remember the movie "The Way", it is in Leon where Martin Scheen treats his friends to a night at the 5-star Parador Hotel (no, I stayed at a nice little hostel closes to the cathedral, not the Parador).

Now that I'm an expert on Spain, I feel confident to say that I preferred the tapas in both Pamplona and Burgos more that those I had in Leon. However, the whole feel of Leon, due to the architecture and tiny, winding streets and sidewalk cafes makes it a city I'd like to return to.

The other item that I can highly recommend is the ice cream. After a long day of walking, it is the perfect reward!

I Gave My Feet A Vacation Today

Knowing that Leon was a short walk today, only 11.5 miles, I decided to give my feet a much needed rest. No, I didn't take the bus! No taxi either! I have walked every step of The Way to this point of the Camino and have no plans on changing this, blisters or not. However, I decided that I needed to take it a bit easier today so I used a transport service and shipped my backpack to my Leon hostel. I did feel just a bit guilty doing this, but I think the benefit will be worth it. Walking without a 20 pound pack on my back for the first time in nearly 20 days was a real treat! My stride was strong and I throughly enjoyed my conversation with an older French couple. 

i am happy to report that my bag arrived in Leon! I was a little worried about what I might do if it got lost, but, no worries! So, tomorrow, the backpack goes back on and I head further west out of Leon. Using the transport service was perhaps the best 7€ that I've spent on the Camino. I'm refreshed and ready now to tackle the last third of the Camino. Life is good!

Here in Leon, I'm staying in a hostel. In comparison with an albergue, one can stay at a hostel as long as you want and you don't have to be out by a certain time in the morning. In an albergue, one usually stays just one night. The similarity is that six people are sharing a room just like in an albergue. My roommates tonight come from New Zealand, Italy, and Germany. Every albergue along the Camino has the same mix of people from all over the world. 

My Camino buddy Dylan from New Zealand entertaining us at the hostel.

The Road Less Traveled

As I have said before, the Camino is very busy this year. First, apparently May is one of the most popular months to walk, and two, it is a holy year. There are times when you can literally see a hundred pilgrims both in front or behind you. 

This has caused some pilgrims to leave as early as 4:15 in the mornings so as to secure a bed at their next destination. My decision to make bed reservations in the Albergues before even leaving the States was a stroke of genius. I, generally, do not walk before it is light!

On Day 17, yesterday, I chose to take the recommended alternative route to Calzadilla. This did two great things for me. First, 99% of the pilgrims took the main route. I literally had the Camino to myself! 

Second, I was on the Via Romana, the exact road that the Romans built and used nearly 2000 years ago. For several hours, I did not see a fellow pilgrim on the road with me. I could quietly walk through the Spanish countryside and have no other company than my own thoughts.

This morning, I had the pleasure of walking another 12 miles on the Via Romana. It's neither shorter nor longer than the main route. It's just less traveled. What a shame for those who missed it. In my mind, this is how the Camino once was or is during less busy times. 

The road less traveled provided a peacefulness that I was lucky enough to experience. 

The Singing Nuns

Carrión de Los Condes was one of the few towns where I didn't have a bed reservation. Few of the church run Albergues take reservations. So, it's first come, first served. That inspired my walk today and put me at the Albergue Santa Maria well before opening time and near the front of the line of pilgrims waiting to get in.

One of the special things the Albergue Santa Maria is known for are the singing nuns. Every afternoon, the nuns perform a set of songs including a little audience participation. What a treat! Later that night at the mass at the church next door, the nuns sang again. It really was a Camino highlight! Caring for the pilgrims is a calling not a job for these special ladies.

My Afternoon With Crazy Freddy!

I was sitting having a sandwich in café/bar Espagña in Carrión de Los Condes when I met Freddy. He is an American physician who has now lived in Carrión for the past seven years and he is definitely one of the local characters! Freddy currently is a guitar maker and concert promoter here in Carrión. He appears to be doing some good things since the mayor has made several buildings availble to him as concert and music workshop spaces. 

Freddy toured me around town which included a stop at one of the older churches he now uses for guitar concerts. I had the honor of ringing the church bell to announce 2 o'clock in town. Carrión seems to have quite the summer art scene with everything from painting competitions to concerts.

Through Freddy, I really got some insights not only into the history of this charming town, but also to the provincial mindset of the Spanish when it comes to trying to get something done here as a foreigner. 

As I finish my 15th day on the Camino, my afternoon with Freddy represents my first real exposure, of any duration, to someone other than my fellow pilgrims. The personally guided tour of town will certainly be one of my fondest memories of this month in Spain.