This has caused some pilgrims to leave as early as 4:15 in the mornings so as to secure a bed at their next destination. My decision to make bed reservations in the Albergues before even leaving the States was a stroke of genius. I, generally, do not walk before it is light!
On Day 17, yesterday, I chose to take the recommended alternative route to Calzadilla. This did two great things for me. First, 99% of the pilgrims took the main route. I literally had the Camino to myself!
Second, I was on the Via Romana, the exact road that the Romans built and used nearly 2000 years ago. For several hours, I did not see a fellow pilgrim on the road with me. I could quietly walk through the Spanish countryside and have no other company than my own thoughts.
This morning, I had the pleasure of walking another 12 miles on the Via Romana. It's neither shorter nor longer than the main route. It's just less traveled. What a shame for those who missed it. In my mind, this is how the Camino once was or is during less busy times.
The road less traveled provided a peacefulness that I was lucky enough to experience.
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